MANILA, Philippines — For many Filipinos, food is never just about sustenance; it is an act of care made visible. In her latest column, Reggie Aspiras explores the cultural nuances of Filipino dining through the lens of Ige Ramos’s new book, Bukambibig.
The centerpiece of this exploration is the Kapampangan concept of Makurilyu—a term that encapsulates the deep-seated fear of running out of food, falling short as a host, or being remembered for what was missing from the table.
The Philosophy of the Spread Aspiras reflects on her own mother, a hostess who lived in constant “panic mode” (kinakabahan baka magkulang), ensuring that “every animal, every part, and every possible dish” made it to the table. This behavior, she realizes, is the physical manifestation of makurilyu:
- Abundance as Welcome: On a Filipino table, abundance says, “You are welcome here, you matter, and our house is your house.”
- Pabaon and Insurance: Leftovers are rarely seen as excess; they are “insurance” or “backup.” The practice of handing out pabaon (take-home food) at the door is an extension of this commitment to ensure no one is deprived.
- Reputation and Pride: In Pampanga and across the Philippines, running out of food is not just inconvenient—it is nakakahiya (embarrassing), a blemish on family pride that is remembered long after the meal ends.
Sisig: A Lived Conversation Ramos’s book also delves into the evolution of Sisig, treating it not as a static recipe but as a “lived food” born from thrift and resourcefulness. The book navigates the ongoing debates about traditional versus modern versions, noting that the dish depends less on strict measurements and more on “instinct—knowing when it tastes right.”
Community Events The conversation around Bukambibig will continue this Saturday, January 31, 2026:
- Book Launch: At Manila House at 3:00 p.m.
- Fiesta Under the Stars: At 5:00 p.m., a culinary spread inspired by coconut, citrus, and chilies will be prepared by chefs including Tatung Sarthou, Gel Salonga-Datu, Tina Legarda, Miggy Moreno, Jay Jay Sycip, and Reggie Aspiras herself.
- Entertainment: The evening will feature a serenade of OPM by Noel Cabangon.
Through Bukambibig, Ramos reminds readers that cuisine is not only what ends up on the plate but the complex web of memories, reputations, and instincts that surround it. It offers a recognizing mirror to the many Filipino hosts who hover over their guests, ensuring that every plate is refilled before it is empty.