Recycled polyester (rPET), often hailed as a sustainable hero for diverting plastic bottles from landfills, is facing intense scrutiny following a 2025 report from the Changing Markets Foundation. The study reveals a troubling irony: garments made from recycled polyester shed significantly more microplastic fibers during washing than those made from virgin polyester—up to 55% more on average, with smaller, more dangerous particles.
Why Does Recycled Polyester Shed More?
The recycling process—melting and extruding plastic bottles into fibers—shortens and weakens polymer chains, creating brittle yarns that fragment easily during wear and laundering. A single wash can release up to 900,000 microfibers, with recycled versions producing finer particles that travel farther in waterways and embed deeper in organisms.
Brands tested (Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, Zara) showed variances, but Nike’s recycled polyester was the worst offender, shedding over 30,000 fibers per gram—nearly four times H&M’s and seven times Zara’s. Shein’s recycled items performed similarly to its virgin ones, raising labeling concerns.
Broader Impacts: A Growing Crisis
Microplastics from textiles contribute ~35% of ocean primary microplastics, infiltrating food chains, water, air, and human bodies (found in blood, lungs, placentas). Links to health risks include inflammation, heart disease, and hormonal disruption. Fashion’s push for recycled polyester—often from bottles, disrupting bottle-to-bottle recycling—has been called “greenwash,” diverting focus from reducing synthetics overall.
While recycled polyester reduces virgin plastic use and carbon footprint, it doesn’t solve microfiber shedding—a persistent pollution source. Experts call for systemic shifts: lower synthetic production, better filtration, and natural fibers.
The fashion industry’s “sustainable” pivot highlights a hard truth: Quick fixes like bottle-to-textile recycling may exacerbate invisible threats. True progress demands reducing overall synthetics, not just swapping sources.
